Review of Zell am See, Austria

Resort Overview for Zell am See:

The attractive lakeside town of Zell am See has a different feel to it than most Austrian ski destinations. Perhaps because of its size or its water front location, this is not the normal mountain village made up of a few dozen giant wooden chalets. On the other hand the mountains are still there, towering high above to altitudes capable of maintaining glacier skiing at neighbouring Kaprun, so the comparatively low altitude of Zell am See doesn't prevent guaranteed skiing throughout the season. The two have been joined, on the same pass at least if not by lifts, in the Europa Sport Ski Region since 1968. Today there are more than 130km of trails (78 miles), 80km (50 miles) of which are local to Zell.

Even though it doesn't meet the standard Austrian resort model, it's still a very scenic spot, with the lake in front and the mountains behind. Another factor making Zell seem that bit different is the feeling of history that oozes from the medieval centre (now pedestrianised) and the culture of the place which stems from it. The water sports, beach parties, classical concerts, festivals and theatre performances at the castle all combine to prove that Zell am See was around long before winter sports were thought of, and still has a life beyond them.

The Skiing in Zell am See:

Zell am See's 80km (50 miles) of trails are largely located on the Schmittenhöhe mountain behind the town. There are various access points to the area, but most people staying in central Zell will take the gondola, the base of which is a few minutes walk above the town centre. Alternative access is via the neighbouring village of Schüttdorf or via a choice of two cable cars that leave from a base above Zell; all are linked by a ski bus, which is free to lift pass holders.

Beginners normally start up by the aforementioned Sonnenalm cable cars and will find the easier blue runs up on top of the mountain, with the option of taking the lift back down if the long run back is too daunting in the early days. Intermediates will enjoy Zell am See's skiing the most with more than 50km (32 miles) of red and blue runs to whizz around on, including an 6.5km (4 mile) trail, the Schutt, descending the full 1200 metre vertical back down to the resort.

Advanced skiers have several long medium-steep blacks descending through the forest to enjoy, some usually mogulled, and Zell has a reputation for good off-piste powder when conditions are right. Zell am See's sunny slopes do have good snow-making cover on nearly two-thirds of the piste, however most skiers will wish to visit Kaprun's glacier skiing on the Kitzsteinhorn Glacier during their stay. This is accessed by a ski bus which runs every 20 minutes in high season, and once an hour during other periods, journey time is around 30 minutes and the service is free to lift pass holders. Lift queues at the glacier, that resulted in the past when skiers from neighbouring low level resorts arrived in droves when conditions were poor, have been eased by the installation of a new six seater chair.

Cross country skiers have up to 200km (125 miles) of trails around the valley including a 10km (6 mile) track on frozen Lake Zell, a three kilometre (two mile) illuminated track at Schüttdorf and a two kilometre high altitude trail on the Schmittenhohe at 1,500 metres.

Après Ski in Zell am See:

The 35 bars, pubs and discothèques in the region give Zell am See a lively night life for those who want it, with quiet sophisticated night spots for those who don't. In the former category the Schnapps Hans Ice Bar at the top of the cable car is a good place to start (especially if the weather is good). Then back in Zell the Villa Crazy Daisy is normally one of the busiest spots in town, along with the popular Diele. Honorary mentions also for Greens, Resi Bar, Viva and Bierstadl. But there is so much more to do than party in Zell - bowling, toboggan run, night skiing, cinema, swimming, skating and a host of other opportunities.

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